The Great Dismal Swamp To Norfolk

"Oh God, thy sea is so great,
and my boat is so small."
 Winfred Ernest Garrison

The Intracoastal Waterway begins at Norfolk, Virginia and runs 1270 miles to Key West, Florida. After that it continues another thousand miles up the Gulf Coast to Brownsville, Texas.  This post will cover the final 60 miles of this northbound section of the ICW to Norfolk.  

"Ok," I tell myself.  "Everything is moving north and it's
moving in a perfect place at a perfect pace." 

Still single handling, I departed Belhaven, NC, August 6, 2016, seeking to connect the ICW from Key West to Norfolk.  I'm getting close. I count my blessings as everything on the boat continues to function according to plan.  It pays to stay on top of things ahead of time and to head off any pitfalls before they bite you in the arse. It's become routine now. 

Eating well, working out often, and meditating frequently is paying off and giving me a steady assurance that all is on a perfect pattern of sequence.  All is truly well. 

After clearing the breakwater in Belhaven, I soon entered a very loooong stretch of a canal that eventually leads to the massive Alligator River.  With no room to sail in this narrow canal, it would be a 6 hour motor trip in order to arrive and stage myself for crossing of the Albemarle Sound on the following day.  

It was a happy sunny day, and I enjoyed the leisurely pace passing mile after mile of remote rich coastal marsh and forest savoring the birdlife and blue sky along the way.

 

Leaving Belhaven  after just one night seemed a bit premature, because I tend to linger more than one day in each new town I discover.  But I was determined to continue north even though quaint little coastal towns like Belhaven and the like kept luring me to linger longer.

This canal to the Alligator River turned out to be one of those days where I did not see another human being along the way, or until the following day when I would arrive at Elizabeth City at dusk. But that's ok too. 

I threaded the needle to find a perfect anchorage at the exact coordinates recommended by a previous cruiser in the guide book. Glory Days swayed gently on the hook as the majesty of dusk soon gave way to a gold crescent moon smiling down at me.  

Tomorrow would be a ten mile sail as the Alligator River widened its gaping mouth to enter Albemarle Sound.  The 22 mile crossing of the sound would allow me to shake out the sails again and catch a nice breeze off the beam. It was lovely and it blew me all the way into the little coastal town of Elizabeth City, NC. I burned zero fuel getting there.

It was one of those times when the wind moves me ever so finely that I felt the need to detour and delay just so I could savor the sailing a bit longer before arriving. It's so magical at times.   it was getting dark so I succumbed to my passion and snagged another free city dock for the night. I am finding that many of the small coastal towns offer a free docking for transients if you need a place for 24-48 hours.  Longer than that and you will need to move elsewhere.

In Elizabeth City, NC, I was able to get off board, stretch my sea legs and enjoy a fine dinner at a waterfront eatery on this quiet Sunday evening.  I didn't get to see too much of Elizabeth City but she was kind to me.

Tomorrow I would enter an area known as the Great Dismal Swamp.  When you are headed towards Norfolk, there are two routes to choose from.  Boats with deep drafts often take the North River route.  Others like me, choose the more scenic and wilderness route to the west crossing through what is called the Great Dismal Swamp. It starts on the northern edge of North Carolina and meanders north crossing over the Virginia State line.

Minutes after leaving Elizabeth City  to enter the Swamp, this bald eagle gave me the eye as I slipped by his domain quietly as I possibly could.

"The Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge is the largest intact remnant of a vast habitat that once covered more than one million acres of southeastern Virginia and northeastern North Carolina. 

The Dismal Swamp Act of 1974 directs the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to: “Manage the area for the primary purpose of protecting and preserving a unique and outstanding ecosystem, as well as protecting and perpetuating the diversity of animal and plant life therein. Management of the refuge will be directed to stabilize conditions in as wild a character as possible, consistent with achieving the refuge’s stated objectives.”

Entering the swamp started out wet and rainy and I quickly donned my rain gear.  I never really mind the rain.  I embrace it, and just move forward knowing a sunny day is always around the corner.  It hasn't failed me yet.  The mixture of light fog, rain and pendulous tree branches welcomed me into the long stretch of a wild swamp canal. What a change, I thought to myself, from sailing in the open Atlantic just a couple days ago.

Green algae scum covered the water in one section making for an interesting trail to leave behind. 

You have to enter a lock at the southern end of the canal that raises your boat up about 10 ft.  There is another lock at the end of the swamp that lowers you back down.  It's all about water management to keep the marshes from flooding and managing the water levels which affect the whole southeast I was told.

Here's the lock as they flood in the water to raise your vessel. You just tie you vessel up to cleats on the side and hang on while the water rushes in.

And then before you know it, you are out of the lock and presto!  Sunshine!  The golden rays peek through as I continue on this narrow route for the whole day passing a wide variety of birds, more green algae, and pristine quietness.  This is pretty much the same view I had for the next 40 miles.  I never met or passed another boat the whole day.

 

Along the Dismal Swamp Canal, there is nowhere wide enough to anchor.  But there are two public docks along the way that make for a great tie up spot to enjoy the surrounds.  I decided to spend the night at the free dock and continue on the next day. I had the whole place to myself.

There was a huge sign at my overnight dockage that warned of bears in the area.  This was not an element I had planned on for sailing at sea... bears? I thought sharks would be my biggest fear!  Oh well, the bears kept to themselves, and so did I.  

Check out the color of the water here.  It is full of tannins which gives it that dark coffee color.

The Dismal Swamp was certainly worth seeing and is a real gem of a nature experience.  Just be sure to keep an eye out for floating logs to dodge and of course those wild bears should they pass your way. 

Click this link to learn more about this unique area:

The Great Dismal Swamp refuge

Before you can exit the Great Dismal Swamp there is one more lock you must enter to adjust your boat back up to the level of the waterway ahead.  At the north lock, I had the pleasure to meet a wonderful and helpful gentlemen, Robert Blikes.  I had read about him from other boaters in the cruiser guide. Their descriptions of him as a walking encyclopedia of local knowledge were spot on. He was quite a character, fun, entertaining and most helpful.

The northern lock dates back to pre civil war days, and evidently George Washington was involved in its construction. The Union forces had tried to destroy it to cut off the Confederate supply lines, but they were turned away by rebel forces to save the lock.

Robert, a 22 veteran lockmaster here, considers himself the "new guy" as only a handful of people have held his position through the centuries.  He was the perfect example of a man who truly loves his work and a kind soul eager to help and educate anyone who passes through his domain with an inquisitive attitude.

As a newbie to the area, I was asking Robert where to go in and around Norfolk, where to get fuel, where to dock, and what to see here.  He started rattling off so much useful information about the area ahead that I just had to stop and record it all on my phone. Take this ferry here, see this museum there, catch this show there, etc... I still had a full day ahead of me, and without Robert's tips on local knowledge I would've not seen half the things ahead that I did.  Thank you Robert! 

I wasn't quite prepared for the culture shock of leaving a remote swamp to immediately entering the full blown congested industrial harbor of Portsmouth.  It happened so fast.  One minute I'm in a quiet swamp and the next I'm suddenly surrounded by bridges, barges, tugs, battleships, and pleasure craft all jockeying for position in one of the busiest ports I've ever entered.


All of the shots below were taken from my little shiplet as I passed through this ultra busy industrial port.  Just little ol' me on my little ol' sailin' trip guiding my Glory Days through it all one wave at a time.

The Portsmouth/Norfolk area is home to lots of military vessels and a huge, historical shipbuilding industry.  My little boat seemed so tiny as I puttered along just trying to stay out everybody's way.

I took Robert's advice and promptly tied up smack in the middle of downtown at a free dock facility that allows one overnight stay.  Then I took his advice and hopped a ferry boat over to the war memorial museum where I spent a couple hours boning up on naval history and touring a huge U.S. Navy Battleship, the Wisconsin.

To top it off, on Robert's advice I walked a few blocks to catch a movie at the world famous Commodore Theatre built in 1945.  This art deco theatre is an architectural masterpiece that has been completely restored inside and with a state of the art sound system approved by George Lucas himself.   Here I dined at my dinner/theatre experience and sat back and enjoyed the latest Star Trek movie sequel.  What a nice cap to the day that began in the Great Dismal Swamp and ended in the heart of bustling twin cities Portsmouth and Norfolk.

I passed the Intracoastal Waterway mile marker zero in Norfolk and toasted a cold one to connecting the dots from here to Key West.

It's really a small world when it comes to transient cruisers who  choose to make this their lifestyle.  Such was the case at the free city dock where i tied up next to a boat named Tehani.  It was not until the following morn that I realized the boat just next to me belonged to a nice couple I had met 2 years ago in Fernandina Marina, Paul and Sherry, aboard their vessel Tehani.

Small world again.  We shared a few tales about similar travels in the Bahamas and discovered we were both headed up the Chesapeake for the next few weeks and would most likely cross paths again. Handshakes and boat cards were exchanged and they made their way north while I sat down and wrote another new song here.

Paul and Sherry Davis, fellow cruisers. 

I slept good on this night.  Tomorrow I would officially begin my passage north into the treasures of the Chesapeake Bay of which I have heard so much from fellow sailors.

It was a nice long, scenic day departing Norfolk. I would pass through commercial shipyards and naval bases on my way to a tidy anchorage I had targeted at Mobjack Bay.

Stay tuned for Entering The Chesapeake coming up next!!

All is Well! 

Carolina On My Mind

You could get hit by the boom and die.

You could fall overboard and die.

You could capsize and die.

Or you could stay at home and fall off the couch and die.

Anonymous

I am in love with North Carolina.  From her graceful green mountains to her rich crooked coastline, you will find scenes unparalleled in beauty and friendly people everywhere. Thanks for visiting my blog as I recollect memories and photos from a few weeks past. More updates coming soon. I am so thankful to be able to do this.  Onward!

With my home sale in Georgia finally behind me, and no more real estate ties to bind me, I flew into Wilmington and returned to Glory Days on July 25, 2016.  I'm ecstatic to resume this north bound saga that began last May, over 700 miles ago. 

In Southport, it was hotter than a tin roof the day i arrived.  I wasted no time opening hatches and airing her out for the next leg ahead. Several parcels of new boat goodies were waiting at the marina and it felt like Christmas morning.

Arrived!!

Ah, solo and single handling once again.  Some folks say, "oh but it must be so lonely out there ..."  Not so.  

I love the time to myself and the accountability I joyfully embrace.  I know I'm responsible for every decision and there's no one to blame but myself for mistakes or to commend for small victories.   If I ever did get lonely, people are never  very far away to engage in some boat banter or just friendly chats about most anything under the sun.  I have found people are pretty friendly wherever you go, even if I have to make the first move sometimes. 

The North Carolina coast is loaded with picturesque towns, each with their own unique personalities. I was delighted to discover four of them: Southport, Beaufort/Cape Lookout, Oriental, and Belhaven. Each has their own charm and magic which makes them distinct individualized pearls of the sea.

Let us continue now!

SOUTHPORT, NORTH CAROLINA

I lingered in Southport a couple days to prepare the boat, repair the propane stove, install two new low voltage fans, rig some fishing gear, and set up the new registration for two brand new Personal Locator Beacons (PLB's).  Hopefully, the PLB's will never have to be activated but it's comforting to know that I could possibly be found if disaster ever occurred at sea.

Here's my favorite trolling lure that I rigged.  It's a very dependable lure because it always never works. Despite it's lack of success, I keep dragging it on a trolling rod whenever I get the chance. There's a saying that insanity is defined as trying the same approach again and again and expecting different results.  I'm not a very smart man. But I do like my new fans!

This sign in a seafood eatery reminded me just how far I've come since this time last year.  Fond memories of Key West tickled my fancy as I chowed down on steamed shrimp and grouper for my final night in Southport.  It's a great little town near Wilmington, and hosts lots of good live music right on the shore.  I heard some good music, plus I was able to sit in and play some blues harp with a local band which is always a hoot.

The bucolic nature of Southport, NC has made it the setting of several major films and tv shows through the years.  Older homes and waterfront restaurants facing the Cape Fear River make it a destination spot for visitors.

Here's a link to info on tv and movies filmed in the Southport area:

TV and Movies filmed in Southport, NC

For my first day I covered 30 miles on the ICW and  dropped my anchor in a perfect spot at the Masonboro Inlet near Wrightsville Beach as seen below. This would be the perfect staging area to clear the inlet before dawn and make the 72 mile outside leap over to Beaufort, NC.

Thankfully, I arrived early and had enough time to make a practice run out the inlet during daylight.  My departure in a few hours would be at night.  I love night sailing, but it's comforting to know the boundaries of the jetties and specific markers ahead of time.  I was ready, and savored a few fleeting hours on the beach there before turning in early.  Hyped.

You gotta love night sailing.  You're just passing the time until God grants you a great sunrise and the promise of a new day.

I was underway at 0300 hours.  A thunderstorm threatened from the west as I was pulling in the anchor.  After some hesitation, I decided the storm would miss me, so I continued onward as planned.  My hunch was correct.  I dodged another one.  I won't always be this lucky.

Good morning God!

It turned out to be a rather docile passage with ample time to read until the winds increased for the final 25 miles.

 I rode the incoming tide into the coastal town  of Beaufort, NC.  Here I bought a new cap that kind of sums it up.

                  

BEAUFORT, NORTH CAROLINA

In North Carolina, the city of Beaufort is pronounced "BOfort" unlike "Buufort" as in South Carolina's town of the same spelling. (Beaufort, SC was featured in a previous post!)

In "BOfort", I landed the perfect anchorage in a tight spot between several boats in the downtown district, directly in front of the National Park Service office.   I found Beaufort to be a bit more touristy that I prefer.  I was expecting another quiet coastal village atmosphere. Instead, there were Iots of folks with fair skin and ice cream cones crowding the streets with cameras and raucous kids in tow.  

Despite the tourists, there is a really great maritime museum where all the rage is about the legendary pirate, Black Beard. It was around this area where he plundered and thrived and eventually met his demise back in 1718.  

The Black Beard history was of interest, but I was much more enthralled by the perfectly assembled skeleton of a whale on display from the ceiling. 

Interestingly, this skeleton is from a beached whale that appeared near Beaufort in January, 2004.  In order to preserve the skeleton, authorities decided to dig a huge pit and bury the whale for 4 long years and allow it to decay.  In 2008 the 200+ whale bones were exhumed from the beach "grave" and were shipped to N.C. State for "degreasing" to eliminate odor. A team set up an off site work facility and spent 4 more years cleaning and reassembling the skeleton as you see here. It is beautiful.  

It looks like some prehistoric dinosaur which is why I had to ask what it was.  They have done a marvelous job preserving this fellow who met his ill fate on the beach.  It's a puzzling phenomenon. Here's a link that addresses the question of why whales beach themselves: Why do whales beach themselves?

Here's a link to the Maritime Museum for more info about the local history of pirates, commerce and whales:

Beaufort Maritime Museum

CAPE LOOKOUT NATIONAL SEASHORE

No trip to the Beaufort, NC area is complete without a side trip to the historic and the breathtakingly beautiful Cape Lookout National Seashore, as seen below.  Although the chart showed it to only be an 8 mile detour to the east, it would turn out to be quite a wild ride at sea to get there.  It would involve exiting the inlet back into the open sea in order to tack east to the Cape.  Notice what a thin spit of land protects this bay and its lighthouse surroundings.  The blue dot is my boat anchorage where I stayed for two lovely nights.

 

Although only 8 miles, it turned out to be a rollicking trip to the east just to get to the Cape.  After a couple hours of this, I arrived and eased my dependable Rocna anchor into the mud of this perfectly protected area where I would explore the dunes and lighthouse the following day.

Ruins from years gone by littered the shore with secret tales in their wombs of distant times gone by.  I found the waters here to be exceptionally clear.  Some sailors had posted this location as a "mini-Bahamas feel" due to the clear water captured here, unlike the more common grey waters of the surrounding Atlantic areas.

If you ever get the chance it's worth the trip out to Cape Lookout.  The only way there is by boat, but they have a ferry service if you don't have your own Glory Days to get you there.  Read all about the features and the colorful maritime history of this cool spot at this link:

Cape Lookout National Seashore Park 

The wind blew a constant 20 knots from the south during my stay here at Cape Lookout.  But the anchor held steady and the surrounding dunes kept the waters calm for a good nights sleep under a panorama of infinite stars reporting from a faraway galaxy.  

The circulating beam of the lighthouse splayed light onto my sleeping berth every 10 seconds like clockwork through the night. I planned to leave Cape Lookout the following day with the proper tide to re-enter Beaufort and continue north toward the next little coastal town, Oriental, NC.

It was another sleigh ride at sea between Cape Lookout and the inlet at Beaufort. With a feisty beam reach I was there in no time at all. 

Upon entering the inlet at Beaufort River, I opted to skip the town this time in order to have a side peek at neighboring Morehead City.  It was getting late in the day so I did not linger here but passed some interesting industrial areas as a big black storm brewed in the exact direction I needed to go.

I entered the coordinates suggested by a previous sailor into my chart plotter for the only charted anchorage nearby and dropped the hook just as this big storm  clobbered me.  I got drenched securing the side curtains and made sure everything was stowed below. I just laughed through the whole event.  It was a warm rain and rather ticklish.

The torrential downpour continued with lots of thunder and electricity in the sky.  All in all it was quite fun, and before long I had a hot shower and was enjoying the comfort of dry  clothes and a good book down below as the rain pounded the deck for another two hours.

Yep.  It's here!

This anchorage during the storm was a bit exposed and barely off the main channel of the waterway as seen above.  Just to be safe, I left both the anchor light and running lights on during the storm until things had cleared.

ORIENTAL, NORTH CAROLINA

Morning came softly and I was soon on my way up Adams Creek toward a place that has lingered a long time on my bucket list, Oriental, NC.  However, one must first cross the widest river in the U.S., the Neuse River, before you can actually enter Oriental.  The Neuse River can be quite a challenge as it was today. Swales, spray, opposing wind, and a tall fetch made for a rough but invigorating crossing.  No pics here, as my hands were glued to the helm. 

I could have motored directly there.  But it was still early in the day, so with the wind on my nose, I chose to grit my teeth and make multiple zig zag tacks in order to cross the Neuse under sail.  Once I got close, I actually considered turning around going back out just to sail some more. It's an addiction I have.  Sometimes I arrive at places sooner than I prefer.

What a pleasure to enter this remote little town with its well protected harbor. Shrimp boats and pleasure boats lined the entrance as I crept in like a mouse, stealthy, curious, and thirsty.

Common fishing fleets in Oriental.

One of the cool things about these smaller coastal towns is that many of them provide a free City dock where cruisers like me can tie up to for up to 48 hours.  As was the case in Oriental where I docked next to a friendly young cruising couple, Kaine and Savannah.  

Since they were headed south and I was headed north we both had information and stories to share about the miles ahead for the other party.  Clean bathrooms are provided and even a picnic table! A perfect sunset as I dinghyed around the harbor set the tone for the next two days exploring the magic of this little gem of a town, Oriental, North Carolina. 

I was so taken with Oriental and I just couldn't get over the home town vibe and consciousness that was evident here.  It was not at all touristy and bustling like Beaufort had been.  Soon I was pedaling around on a free bicycle from the local marine provision store where I later ooowed and awwwed at all the boat goodies through the window that night.

Some folks lust over fancy new cars.  Me, I'm all about getting my hands on a sporty new dinghy like this baby one day.  She boasts a stainless steel transom, a sealed bow storage compartment, V- shaped hull, solid flooring, deep gunnels, heavy duty grab handles, and welded davit grips for easy lifting.  This sweet baby was priced at $3900. Oh to dream.

I was so smitten with Oriental, I even looked at some real estate while there.  My mind was racing with the possibilities of becoming a transplant Orientalite working on some great music or writing project between sailing expeditions on the Neuse River.  

This little bungalow is just 2 blocks from the shore and was simply "eat up" with funky atmosphere and charm. I met this fellow, David below who, like me, had taken a fancy to the quiet slow life of Oriental and moved here from afar.  He keeps his sailboat nearby.  

Here he is standing in front of the old fire house station that he bought and converted into a rather lofty new home for himself.  The fire truck originally parked in what is now his living room. He was an afficionato of the area and soon toured me around the town in his car and showed me several properties that had recently sold or were coming onto the market.

I soon grounded myself with these wild real estate flirtations and savored a big salad at the picnic table with Lady Deborah.  I need to leave this place before I do something crazy I thought. Oh to be retired and free, it is such a blessed (and sometimes dangerous) thing.  Somebody pinch me please. 

After another great sunset in Oriental, I said goodbye to my feathered dock mates and made plans to depart for the next lovely town ahead, Belhaven, NC.

Here's some scenes along the way from Oriental to the next little sea town Belhaven.

It's not everyday you see 3 beautiful women out sailing a 40' boat all by themselves.  So much for Captain Manhood here.

Kayaking is big in these parts.

A CLOSE CALL:

I almost got myself into a bit of a pickle on this day.   It happened as I was leaving the waters of the wide open sound and reentering a narrow section of the ICW. 

The best friend a single handler has is his auto pilot as it allows you the freedom to take your hands off the helm and do critical jobs like make a sandwich, reading the chart, tinkering with the sails or just go use the bathroom.

Well, long story short, my auto pilot had been making some funny grinding sounds so I figured this would be a good time to drop anchor, disassemble the auto pilot and trouble shoot the problem.  That means I would have to remove the power supply from the auto pilot and remove the entire helm (steering wheel) in order to dismantle the belt assembly and see what's up with it. 

Since the channel here was so narrow there was very little room for me to anchor outside of it, so I edged over as close as I could, but I was still partially in the channel. I hadn't seen another vessel all day long, so no problem I thought to myself. It's just me out here after all. What could possibly go wrong?

So far-so good as I sauntered through the repair process making double sure not to misplace any vital parts like screws, washers, bushings, etc.  Next, I cleaned all the innards of the working mechanisms and I was even gloating a little over my new found confidence that I can really repair anything when I set my mind to it.  

But before I had all the parts back in place I noticed a huge barge with tug boat approaching from the sound. 

Uh oh I thought.  I hadn't seen another vessel all day long and NOW this big barge is approaching when I have no steering?

Barge approaching

It is not uncommon for barges to travel at speeds of 10-12 knots, so I knew he could be on me before I knew it.  With this in mind, Skipper Joe hails the tug on channel 16 of the VHF radio. It went something like this:

"Hi this is sailing vessel Glory Days. I have a mechanical problem but I will be out of the channel very shortly as soon as I correct the problem Captain, over."

Reply:  "You don't need to be anchored in the channel son.  I'm headed your way and I'm gona need every inch of it to get through there, over."

Barge passing in narrow channel.  Well hello.

Luckily, the assembly project was almost completed, but I knew it was going to be impossible to get out of his way if I had no steering wheel! I scallie wallied myself into double time (yes, I make up words sometimes) and did a quick and clumsy connection of the helm onto the drive shaft, fired the engine, and rushed to the bow to hoist the anchor as he was showing no signs of politely slowing down for this tinker boy with his tools strewn all over. 

I edged my vessel to the shelf of the channel and allowed him to pass his big ass right by me with little time to spare. That's a close one I thought to myself.  

I realize t's difficult to slow down a huge barge, and I WAS anchored in the channel, so I give him the benefit of the doubt. But he was showing no signs of compromising his speed or course to accommodate my little mechanical wizardry that I was so marveled with at the time.   

After he passed, I took a deep breath, reconnected the wiring, bolts and whatnots, and was soon on my way with a perfectly tuned auto pilot.

So long Mr. Barge.

BELHAVEN, NORTH CAROLINA

After my encounter with the barge I was relieved to find some sailable water while on the ICW, and raised the sails again for some fine travel through some remote areas as I approached the community of Belhaven.

 Passing forested areas like this above was a teaser of what I'd soon discover on the Alligator River after leaving Belhaven.  But first things first, it was time for a time out in yet another quaint little town by the sea, Belhaven, North Carolina.

And yet another public City dock allowed me to keep the anchor dry and enjoy the privilege of simply walking downtown for dinner or a drink.  I needed a drink actually.

"large please."

As you can see the night streets of Belhaven were bustling with energy as 9 pm crept in on a Friday night.  This was a quaint little town, but I did not linger long.  My sights were set on the Alligator River and my entry into the Great Dismal Swamp ahead.   

I tried to break some rules in Belhaven, 
but no one would arrest me.

All I could find that night was some not-so-good live music and a smoky bar where the owners immediately greeted me with "So how's your boat?"  Is it that obvious I thought to myself?  

It must be the ever-present backpack, hair, and flip flops that gives me away to locals.  It happens more than you know.  Anyway 25 cents per game at pin ball and I was  soon racking up points I never knew I could.  

In a matter of hours, I would untie the dock lines from Belhaven and begin a most interesting journey for the final leg of the Intracoastal Waterway before entering the Chesapeake Bay.  It would be a long day ahead and I'd better get her started, mattie.

When you travel north after crossing the 14 mile  wide Albemarle Sound, you have two choices, either via the North River or via the Great Dismal Swamp.

I am choosing to go the Great Dismal Swamp route.

Can't wait to share it!  Stay tuned! 

Life On The Waterway -  Joe Green - Aug. 7. 2016 - open tuning, capo 2

Brunswick to Savannah with Sapelo in between.

We ran aground n Ossabaw, with the wind on the beam.

A thunderstorm near Beaufort lingered to the west,

Cannonball hail was coming down, this would be a test.

That’s the life on the waterway, 

Some days you're gonna get wet.

The Intracoastal Waterway from Norfolk to Key West

Entering Charleston Harbor at night was not my plan.

We cleared the bridge just in time, then kissed the land.

A city rich in history, much of it untold.

We sailed past Fort Sumpter to Georgetown in the cold.

That’s the life on the waterway, 

Some days you're gonna get wet.

The Intracoastal Waterway from Norfolk to Key West

We cleared the inlet at Masonbqoro, and had the canvas up by dawn.

82 miles to Southport.  Carolina here I come.

Wilmington was inland. So she got a pass.

I set my sights on Cape Lookout. Where Black Beard met his death.

That’s the life on the waterway, 

Some days you're gonna get wet.

The Intracoastal Waterway from Norfolk to Key West

On to Oriental.  A little town by the sea.

Where 700 people and 3000 boats.  Live in harmony.

Moving up the waterway. Mile marker 135.

Made some friends in Belhaven and then said goodbye.

The Alligator river continues north.  To Albemarle Sound

A right of passage is the Dismal Swamp

Or you ain’t been around.

I love this highway on the water.

One thousand two hundred and seventy miles.

She’s so wild and she’s so rich.

And she takes me home for a while.

That’s the life on the waterway, 

Some days you're gonna get wet.

The Intracoastal Waterway from Norfolk to Key West